PLATEAU STATE, PART IV: THE MWAGHAVUL PEOPLE

Drive southeast out of Jos toward Mangu and the land begins to fold into rocky hills, volcanic domes, and terraced farmland dusted green with potatoes and maize. This is Mwaghavul country — home to one of Plateau State’s most prominent indigenous nations, and a place where hospitality, hard farm work, and a deep attachment to the land are still the measure of a good life. For the visitor willing to leave the tarred road, Mwaghavul land offers volcanic craters, colonial-era fish farms, a living festival calendar, and some